Built new system, installed Windows 10... now what?

Discussion in 'General Software Discussion' started by arb65912, Oct 6, 2017.

  1. arb65912

    arb65912 New Member

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  2. Tipstaff

    Tipstaff Well-Known Member

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    How close to their build did you stay? Is it the exact same as below, or was there anything different that you went with? Specifically, did you stay with the same motherboard and RAM? (this will make it easier for others to help you... unfortunately not me as I don't venture into the over-clocking realm)

    Intel Core i7-7820X
    Cooler Master MasterLiquid Pro 280
    Gigabyte Aorus X299 Gaming 7
    G.Skill Trident Z 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4-3200
    Aorus GeForce GTX 1080
    Samsung 960 EVO 1TB
    HGST Deskstar NAS 6TB
    LG WH14NS40 Blu-ray burner
    Fractal Design Define R5
    Corsair RM1000

    BTW, what did you go with for a monitor?
     
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  3. arb65912

    arb65912 New Member

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    I added the actual components in the quote above.
    I was close but actually a bit better.

    I am using 3 AOC 24" monitors.

    Another question, I am checking CPU temperature for last half an hour or so, it is around 83 deg Celsius. Is that OK? No OC at all.
     
  4. Dyre Straits

    Dyre Straits 10 Grandkids, 5 boys and 5 girls!

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    Checking my own i7-3770K...and having it enabled for Turboboost at 4200 MHz, mine runs idle at around a little under 40C-46C and top out at 65C when running a benchmark like Unigine Heaven.

    What kind of cooling are you using? What type of thermal compound for the CPU?

    What does Intel show as the operating temperature range for the CPU?
     
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  5. Tipstaff

    Tipstaff Well-Known Member

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    He has the cooler listed as the CM MasterLiquid Pro 280 (which has 2x140mm fans). From what I remember of the Pro 240 it should come with a small syringe of thermal paste.

    Edit: come to think of it, I did have a customer complain to me that the one I sold him (a Pro 240) was defective... as if it was my fault. Guy brings it in trying to return it, and wouldn't you know it, I turn over the block, and find that he forgot to remove the sticker that is covering the copper. Funniest s**t ever.
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2017
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  6. Dyre Straits

    Dyre Straits 10 Grandkids, 5 boys and 5 girls!

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    Just for reference, I just ran the Unigine Superposition Benchmark and selected the VR Ready test. I wanted to Stress the system.
    And, using Open Hardware Monitor, I tracked the speed and temps of the system. The section I've cropped shows the minimum and maximum speeds and temps during the test.

    HW-Monitor-10-7-17.jpg
     
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  7. arb65912

    arb65912 New Member

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    I am using Cooler Master MasterLiquid Pro 280.
    Thermal compound was used the one that came with the cooler.

    Intel Site says : Tjunction Max is the maximum temperature the cores can reach before thermal throttling activates.
    TJUNCTION 99°C
     
  8. arb65912

    arb65912 New Member

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    Correct about the cooler.
    Funny about the sticker covering copper head. I was smart enough to remove it. :D
     
  9. arb65912

    arb65912 New Member

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    @Dyre and Tipstaff: I have some interesting news for you, might be expected but for me it was a discovery. :)

    I ran AORUS System Information Viewer and checked Temperature recording tab as well as Smart fan 5 Auto.

    When Smart Fan Auto was set to Standard or Performance, I could see CPU temperature climbing to about 84 deg C and staying there...

    I opened my simulator and few other programs simultaneously to get a good workload on the CPU. My flight simulator called X-Plane is very CPU power "hungry".
    I have noticed a significant frame rate drop to the unacceptable levels of 10 fps....
    I was totally disappointed and frustrated.
    I am thinking:" Shit, the best PC build ( not the best but pretty good for gaming), 64 GB RAM, fast processor, wtf????

    Then I thought:" Let's try to run fans at max".
    I have changed the Auto Fan setting to Full Speed.
    Bam!!!! CPU temperature droped to around 45 deg C.

    I started all programs again, flight simulator, Gimp, Blender, Firefox with 10 tabs opened, Video recorder and Video Editor. Lots to demand from the system...
    I have this setup right now and sytem have been on for few hours.
    CPU temperature spikes to 60+ at certain times like export files or reopening the aircraft and immediately drops to an average number that is 45 deg C.

    So I have the problem solved but I wonder why such a big difference when I had fans set to Performance and Full Speed?

    I have a hearing problem but my wife says that at full speed fans run more quiet than before at Performance speeds.

    What do you guys think? Very interesting.
     
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  10. Tipstaff

    Tipstaff Well-Known Member

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    How do you have the fans situated? I assume the radiator is attached to the top of the case, and the fans are attached to the (now) underside of the rad, correct? So that they are pushing air through the rad towards the top of the case? Or are they the other way around, pulling air through the rad into the case?

    What about the 2 case fans? Are they both pulling air in, or is the front one pulling air in, and the back one pushing air out? If you have the fans on the rad pushing air out of the case through the rad I would change both the front and rear case fans to pull air into the case. Circulation wise, this way you have as much air coming into the case as you do going out.
     
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  11. arb65912

    arb65912 New Member

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    Thanks for the questions. I will check all this week and take few pictures.
    I love my new system but I do want to make sure I did not miss something.
     
  12. Tipstaff

    Tipstaff Well-Known Member

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    You followed the manual, right? Where you connected the 2 fans together using the y split cable, and then connected that to one of the case fan headers on the motherboard? And then the pump you connected to the CPU fan header, right? One thing to make sure of is that you hook up the pump to a header that is set to max speed. It should always run at full RPM.

    In your case you want to hook the fans up to the CPU_FAN header (note: you can also use the CPU_OPT header as this is specifically intended for water cooling fans, but you may need to turn off the CPU fan warning option in the bios), and the pump to HPWR_FAN_PUMP header that is beside the main ATX power connector on the motherboard (top right of the board). I can't recall exactly how to change it, but like I said, you want to have it set to full (all I remember is that there was an auto, voltage, pwm setting for that header, but I can't remember how to set it to full). If the board won't let you change it while connected to that header try one of the other system fan headers as they usually have basic settings you can easily override.
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2017
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  13. arb65912

    arb65912 New Member

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    Oh boy... no, I did not. I will take pictures tonight and post.
    I must have had it all wrong...
    Stay tuned.
     
  14. arb65912

    arb65912 New Member

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    OK, here we go.

    Do not pay attention to dates on the pictures, I did not set time properly, now I have.... but too late.

    Below is the Cooler Master 280, left fan connected to SYS FAN 2, right fan to SYS FAN 3

    https://i.pinimg.com/originals/74/50/5f/74505f188fd35d4efbbc7e6ea9086586.jpg

    Pump head connected to HPWR_FAN_PUMP

    https://i.pinimg.com/originals/9f/79/ca/9f79caab069ee231657c6ad620168aa2.jpg

    Back case fan pusher air out connected to SYS FAN_1

    https://i.pinimg.com/originals/f0/86/59/f086593c3a698b2d7e5f29dda9273f74.jpg

    Front case fan pushing air in connected to SYS_FAN_4

    https://i.pinimg.com/originals/27/84/36/27843639e5d3977f291a55b1cba87a67.jpg

    Case top where the cooler fans are blowing into is closed by design, I can open but it will look ugly.

    https://i.pinimg.com/originals/c9/56/37/c95637767e009b84cff79997c48cb9a3.jpg

    So from directions of the fans spinning I figure that front fan pushes air in taking in from the case sides.
    Back case fan pushes air out from the case.
    Cooler fans are blowing into radiator and since there is no opening to push air out ( top of the case is closed) , air gets diverted back to the case going at least partially through radiator.

    I know with the fans on max, I get around 55-60 deg C with all my main applications running which is OK but I do believe that my air flow setup is messed up regardless of where I would hook up fans.

    I would love to try that splitter, I am sure I have it and hook up both cooler fans into CPU fan socket ( the one by CPU_OPT one).

    NOW I am getting really excited!!!! :D:p;)

    Thank you for replying, that encourages me to learn and investigate!
     
  15. Tipstaff

    Tipstaff Well-Known Member

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    Yeah... you really should open the top of the case, otherwise you're smothering the rad. As for the top itself, I know what you mean. Taking the top off leaves a rectangular indentation that looks bad. To get around the "ugly" look, I can't recall the exact measurements inside the indent, but what you could do is grab some magnetic mesh fan filters like THIS (just remember to grab 2 of them).

    Edit: now that I recall, I remember Fractal talking about putting out an optional top filter similar to THIS. Could be that one, but I could swear it was a 3 x fan filter, not 2.

    Edit 2: ah.. found it. It depends on which one you want to get, but they should both work. Aesthetically it looks better to get the 3x.. cleaner looking.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2017
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  16. arb65912

    arb65912 New Member

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    Great! I will do that ( get the mesh). I was kind of thinking that this cop cover makes no air movement for the cooler radiator.
    Actually I think that mesh should be included in the case which is quite expensive anyway...

    Should I still try to hook up cooler fans into splitter and then CPU fan header?

    If I do that I leave Pump head connected to HPWR_FAN_PUMP?

    I am going to try tonight, just remove the covers and see if CPU temperature drops on a longer run.

    Thank you!
     
  17. Tipstaff

    Tipstaff Well-Known Member

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    Yes on both counts. Using the Y splitter allows you to power and control both fans simultaneously. If you or the motherboard changes the speed, both will change. If, however, you want independent control of each fan, you could leave it as is, but imo it won't make a difference if one side has more air blowing on it than the other.

    And yes, they should have included mesh for the top. Or at least have it as a removable insert. They have mesh on the front, and on the bottom, both areas where air is going to get sucked in... oversight at best. Even the R4 has a similar issue. The top is flush on that case, but once you take out the inserts there's nothing stopping dust from settling through the holes when the system is off. Same for the side panel, which is worse as air gets sucked in through it without an inch of filtering.

    I don't see you needing these, but I keep a bunch of THESE handy for clients. I got the non-Window version of the R5 case for a client (sorry.. I said I have that case, but I meant a client.. I have the Titanium R4), so on top of getting the filter for the top I also used the 140mm filter for the side.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2017
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  18. arb65912

    arb65912 New Member

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    Hello again! :)

    I will use the splitter, just too tired today. I will plug it into the CPU fan header.
    Since the fluid in radiator comes from one side and then comes out after running through radiator, you can tell than one area under the fan is hotter than the other one.
    Theoretically, one could probably use more "juice" for the hotter half fan but since my fans run on max anyway, it would not make any difference.
    Good to know the option anyway.

    Lack of mesh in R5 case, no c comments, you said it all.
    Dust, yes, that one is always a problem, especially with cat around....
    I still think that it is better to have a bit more dusty ( I will try to vacuum every two weeks or so..) case top and cooler running system than less dust case boiling eggs on radiator, ha, ha.

    I have checked the links, thank you tons, I am buying one tomorrow. For now I used the one from the backup computer.

    Now the comments you will love, you were so right... :cool::D

    I fired up all my programs I use the most including two the most CPU hungry ones, flight simulator and the MAGIX Movie Editor Pro exporting MP4 movie over an hour long.

    With the case closed, I noted the CPU temperatures ( Aorus System Information Viewer and Intel Extreme Tuning Utility).
    Aorus measures CPU temperature and INtel Package Temperature.
    I would like to know what is package temperature, all I know it is about 10 degrees higher than CPU temperature.
    My readings with all closed:
    CPU ~77 deg C , Package ~90 deg C Pretty hot from what have tried to read, especially without OC.

    Then I removed the covers from the top and put that temporary mesh.
    Almost immediately I could see the temperature starting dropping.
    I let it stabilize ( about 15 minutes with all the mentioned programs running) and results were:
    CPU~51 deg C, Package~65 deg C.
    WOW!!! what a difference, right? 66% and 72% of the original values. I loved it.

    Better yet, as soon and I shut of MAGIX Movie Editor Pro with all other programs running, I got even more drop:
    CPU~30 deg C , Package~ 40 deg C.

    Totally happy with the results and thank you for the great help.

    What should I do/try now to have more fun with my new build? ;):Do_O
     

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