Chris4Prez

Hello everyone. I just purchased a new 2800+ Barton. I was shocked to notice it was running at 158 degrees (F) today (when I put the side panels on for the first time). Something tells me that's not good. I have a good CPU fan in there, but no case fans. I have removed both side panels and downclocked it to 1250 MHz and it is running at 112 degrees. What should the average be with the 2800+? 112 sounds ok but I don't want to have to downclock the CPU to get it to run cool. What is the temperature threshold for the 2800+? Thanks in advance for any replies you might have!

Nacht

thats about 70 degrees celsius...it sounds about right to me...AMD procs typically run hotter than their intel counterparts.

Chris4Prez

So, there is nothing wrong with 160 degrees?

craig5320

My 2800 is overclocked to 3200 and runs at 42C. using a zalman silent heatsink. I'd seriously look at getting more cooling to that, i think the limit is ~80C

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dj_stick

the threshhold is about 80°C… i breached that with my barton for a while but its still alive now

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Malus

My Mobile Athlon XP 2500 @ 3200 usually idles at like 38, and that is with the cheap Thermalright ALX800 and a YS-Tech fan and a 240 watt power supply. I would get a better HS/Fan combo if I were you. The ALX800 does a good job for being cheap, but you have to buy a fan seprately.

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Judas

here's the deal... with a STOCK RETAIL Heatsink that comes with the 2800+.... these are what you should expect for temps:

Without any addition cooling.. however, still using a dual fan Power Supply.... (no other case fans.. and maybe a fan on the northbridge and video card)

idle temp should be about 40*C.... full load should be about 55*C (the later being at full blast)

With a well ventilated case....

35*C for idle and max shouldbe just below 50 or even some cases... 45*C.... no higher..

however.. theres are just rounded out numbers... consider a give or take 3*C...

ALSO.... in the results... i removed that thermal pad on the heatsink and applied some "more then generic" thermal paste.... using thermal pads really REALLY boost the heat

I currently run my 2500+ @ 3000 ((2x)166x12) and pulling idle... 45*C and maxium 53*C

ALSO... these are serface temps.. not CORE...

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Zardon

a little offtopic here, but I was called around by my mate who had just purchased a prescott and was concerned about temperatures. I told him on the phone they ran hot but he said it was hitting 90c in the bios.

After much hair pulling and flashing of bioses while the chip was thermal throttling I eventually found out the problem was down to the fact he hadnt removed the plastic protective strip on the SLK900 heatsink so the CPU wasnt even touching the copper. just goes to show what these processors can handle though.

[/offtopic]


chris check you have thermal compound correctly applied, make sure the fan is spinning correctly and update your bios (not sure your mobo but Abit are known to read high), and oh yeah make sure you have the protective strip removed on the heatsink.

Lchevy79

you need some cooling for that jewel i have 1 it runs 47c /116 in idel with a volcano 9 heatsink and antec silver 3 i broke my 5000rpm fan and replaced it with a 2800 rpm i have 3 case fans also so if you are at 70c you are getting really hot i took this off an amd forum 1. Safe and Error Free CPU Temps


AMD state the max operating temp for their XP CPUs is 85C. Some earlier CPUS were 90C, but only a few. Stick with 85C.

85C is the Internal Fry Temp. If the temperature inside the CPU goes above 85C you CPU is increasingly likely to die. Permanently.


Most motherboard CPU temp sensors report the Surface temp. The Surface Temp is typically around 10C lower than the Internal CPU Temp under Full Load conditions. So:

Internal Fry Temp = 85C
Surface Fry Temp = 75C


The Error Free Temp is not the same as the Fry Temp. It will vary from CPU to CPU, but typically it's 20C below the Fry Temp, i.e.

Interenal Error Free Temp = 65C
Surface Error Free Temp = 55C


If you overclock your machine the Error Free Temp falls - i.e. your CPU has to run cooler in order to remain stable.



2. Typical Running Temps

As most Mobos report the Surface CPU Temp, we'll stick with that from now on. This has the additional advantage that the CPU heatsink (near the base) is roughly the same temp as the CPU Surface temp, and it's possible to measure the Heatsink temp.


Actual Surface CPU Temps using a standard cooler are typically 30C above room temp on Idle and 40C above room temp on Full Load. You have to be doing something serious to get you CPU temp much above Idle - something that uses 100% CPU continuously. Rendering video, runing Prime95, and some games can do this.

That means that Surface CPU temps on a hot day - say 25C in your room - can get up to 55C, i.e. the typical Error Free Temp. That does not mean the PC will crash, of course; only that it might. Seems about right to me: standard machine, occasional crashes on hot days...

The standard cooler is not really designed for climates where romm temperature goes much over 25C for extended periods of time


With a "top of the range" air cooler the Surface CPU temps will be much lower - 18C over room temp at Idle, and 24C over room at Full Load. So even if room temp reaches 30C the Surface CPU temp is only 54C at Full Load.

This setup is sutable for a heavy duty or overclocked machine.



3. Do I need to worry?


Probably not.


The most important fact in all of this is the 20C buffer zone between Error Free Temp and Fry Temp.

This leads us directly to ActionMan's Axiom:

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If your computer is stable it is not over-heating.

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Which also means it will crash or shut itself down before serious damage is done.



4. Calibrating CPU Temp Readouts


But if you PC is not stable, and you think heat might be the cause, you need to find out what the CPU temps actually are.

The simplest thing is to measure the Heatsink temp as close to the base as possible. If you don't have a thermometer use this scale:
70C = Burnt Fingures
60C = Painfull
50C = Hot
40C = Pleasantly Warm

Hot is OK as a Full Load temp, anything higher is trouble. Hot on Idle is trouble.


You can also try the Cold PowerUp Test. Like this:

Let the machine cool down (overnight); and switch on, go straight into the bios and check the temps.
At the instant you power on the System and CPU temps should both equal Room temp. Any significant difference is a calibration error in the readouts.

Notice how long it takes for the temp to rise to the Idle Temp. If its around 2-3mins the test is invalid; but if it takes 10-15 mins for the temps to level off, the test is OK. In that case the calibration error is about 2C less than the difference between the CPU temp and room temp at startup.

So why would the test be invalid? Because some Mobos report the CPU internal temp, not the surface temp. The Surface of the CPU is in contact with the heatsink, which acts as (wait for it)... a heat sink; so the Surface Temp reacts slowly. The Internal Temp changes much faster - it could easily go up 15 or 20C in the time it takes to get into the Bios and read the CPU temp.


Finally, you can measure the effectiveness of your CPU cooler.

Take the difference between the Idle CPU Temp (after 15 mins) and the Full Load CPU Temp after running Prime95 Torture Test for 15 mins.

A 10C difference is OK
A 5C difference is excellant.

And you can also calculate your Running Temps using this Difference

Idle Temp = Room Temp + 3 x Difference
Full Load Temp = Room Temp + 4 x Difference

Though on some machines this seems to give figures that are too high

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The_Neon_Cowboy

My 2500+ o/c to 2800+ puts out around 45C with the stock cooler, 30C with a slk 800U and 34C under full load for very long time.....

Is that the stock cooler? or did you buy oem and then a 3rd party cooler? Try reinstalling the cooler with a good themal paste


thats way incorrect.... intels are in "fact" much hotter... Thats a intel fan started myth when the first p4's came out....

with the exception of mabe the FX's

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malkor

I don't think it's really true either way. Some of the older AMD procs did run quite hot., just as the new Presotts run quite hot.

But let me give you a comparison of two CPUs that came out at approximately the same time with comparable capabilities, an Athlon XP2800+ Barton and a P4B 2.8Ghz. I had these both set up in Lian-Li cases, almost identical peripherals and identical fans. An SLK-900U on the P4 and an SP-97 on the Athlon (same 92mm 2500rpm fan on both). At 22 Celsius room temp(same room side by side), the P4 idled at 30 and the Athlon idled at 35. At full load the P4 peaked at 42 and the Athlon never went above 40. Hard to say which is cooler here.

You could say the Athlon is cooler because it's load temp is lower and the delta between idle and load is much smaller. Or you could say the P4 is better because it idled a full 5 degrees lower, and who runs their machine at full load more than 50% of the time?

Fanboys is fanboys. Both are/were great cpus.

BWX

TbredB 1800 @ 1.6v
-2.25Ghz
-Thermalright SLK 900
-Arctic Silver Ceramique
-4000rpm (Adjustable) Thermaltake fan
-Well ventilated case
-Air-conditioned room
-System in Sig

-33°c - 35°c Idle

-38°c - 42.5°c Load

Just for comparison

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HawK

xp 3200 Barton on GA-7N400u cooler CM-Jet 7
Idle 54c cooler @ 1900rpm
Load 56c cooler @ 2300rpm

Yes Bartons are runnin hot but no worries; on stock AMD-cooler I had 60-65c

Mazuko

I'm running 43-53C at full (depending on my rooms temp) on a stock AMD cooler w/ a 2600+. Although I do have a huge 83.4CFM fan on it that sounds like a jet engine...but you get used to it.

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BWX

I had a Gigabyte mobo right before I got my Abit- the Gigabyte has a more sensitive and I think more accurate temp sensor- with the exact same chip and cooler in the exact same case my Gigabyte temp sensor would read 44 to 47c degrees and then the Abit would read 35 to 37c. I've since gotten a better cooler, but back then the Gigabyte would read much higher than the Abit- I bet if you put your chip on a different brand mobo you would get cooler temp readings..

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HawK

Yes I know.. but to fix the high temp. readings, I have to flash the Mobo with a newer bios..
but that already cost me a dead GA-7N, and I'll be damned if I flash the new one
fine by me as it is

BWX

Hmm, I always used to use that software that comes with Gigabyte mobo's to update BIOS and never had a problem- Plus with DUAL BIOS it's almost fool-proof..
I'm almost amazed that you managed to kill it, or it died or whatever. Mine was rock solid always. One thing I hate about the Abit is no Dual BIOS- a high end board should always have that as a safety feature In fact I had to call and get a new chip when some Abit retards mislabeled a bios download and I flashed it with the wrong one. No PC for 4 days is no fun..

Anyway, that off topic I guess, but I Would rather have the Gigabyte temp sensor than the Abit one, it is 100x more sensitive, it may actually be giving the right temp and the others are giving lower than actual temp too.

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BMG_Cya=-

I have the exact same chip, and it rarely gets above 35 Celsius...42-43 if overclocked a good bit.
I have about the most aircooling you can have.

The original poster needs some case fans. That chip is running way too hot.
Also, if the room where your PC ops., is higher than 75F...that's too hot imho.

germanjulian

that aint normal. either the heatsink is not sitting properly or to much thermalpaste.

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