Water cooling questions interesting... read

merlinxi · Oct 4, 2004, 04:06 PM

My friend and I are making a custom water cooling system. We are going to do Direct-die water cooling. We are getting plexi glass blocks to cut out and shape to the Pentium. We are using a 1200 L/hr pump. We are using Marine anti-freeze for the cooling. 3/16" tubing.

Now the Resovoir is going into a refrigerator. (With some engineering enginuity to get the pipes through the fridge.) Our resvoir is a Gallon. Will this water cooling be effective? What faults do you see, besides the leaking and such that can be fixed. I am asking if this would be good cooling efficiency. If not why not?

Because people continuely use AIR to cool the radiators which is POINTLESS because you are using AIR ROOM TEMPERATURE air against the radiator, which is still using air cooling. This makes no sense how that is effectice, in our case.

Merlin

GutterPunk · Oct 4, 2004, 04:36 PM

Sounds reasonable, and since the water block isn't a maze, the antifeeze will not leave residue and clog up as easily... As for the block you are going to use, I have no clue on how efficient that will be... I do not know how well the heat transfer is in plexi glass

krips · Oct 4, 2004, 04:44 PM

Not that I want to start some big argument, but how is using room-temperature air to cool your rad pointless? Does water cooling that is done in this way not give lower temps than traditional cooling? That's what I thought.

GutterPunk · Oct 4, 2004, 04:57 PM

But his point is, just like w/ a hs/f you are only going to be cooling the medium at air temperature whether its 20C or 40C, you are rather limited

And I get better temps then a friend w/ water cooling i am cooling w/ my stock hs/f and oced much much more (his isn't even touched)

WisMerHill · Oct 5, 2004, 12:39 PM

also make sure you have proper protection from condensation. thats one of the reasons it isn't bad to cool with airtemp. when using lower temps than your surrounding s condensation will start to form so insulate your board.

as to your statement :
people continuely use AIR to cool the radiators which is POINTLESS because you are using AIR ROOM TEMPERATURE air against the radiator, which is still using air cooling

it's flawed.
1st) air temp is cooler then the hot water returning to the rad so it will be cooled.
2nd) though in a closed system the principle of evaporation still applies meaning the hot water is giving up heat to the air.

also, remember that watercooling isn't meant to freeze or anything, i use watercooling because it:
- gives lower temps then on air
- doesn't have the noise that aircooling needs to come close in performance

merlinxi · Oct 7, 2004, 06:08 AM

well we got it to no leak status and we did the standard 20 minute test, with everything a go, we inserted the block and chip onto the motherboard. problem... our fault. (lol daves fault) and simply impatience, we didnt let the anti-freeze get cold. it was room temperature, the pump was at a steady trickle, not too slow but certainly not fast, 150 gallons an hour, but prolly a lot slower than that. we booted to the bios and went to health status. 210 degrees :-( the block was plexi-glass hot glued to high heaven all of a suddon the glue melted after about a minute of 200+ temp. farenheight and water all over the moboard. damn. i know the fridge and coolant was not all cool as it should of been. but even at roomtemperature why / how could the chip heat the 1.5 ounce of water touching the chip directly so fast. maybe its our pump speed? lol failure at its worste

(((((((((((((((((

(Don't worry, the mobo and the chip are still in perfect health.)

WisMerHill · Oct 7, 2004, 01:27 PM

could have been the lack of flow. you might wanna check that with a flow indicator.

you're lucky all still works

merlinxi · Oct 7, 2004, 02:25 PM

Yes it has to be the flow. Cause first of all the pump had no return opening line. It only had a "go" line. THe pump is submergabel, so it only sucked the water in the resovir and spit it out of the top, so the return line had no suction back. So in other words their is really no way that flow was good at all. We are going back to the pet store and getting a much stronger pump, and one that sucks the return line, and not just pushes. So I am hoping we will get much better results. WE also are going to get 1/2 ID tubing, maybe bigger since we are not restricted by the block.

If this works I will jump out of my boots.

Merlin

WisMerHill · Oct 7, 2004, 03:22 PM

Yes, should prove fun if you guys get it to work.

I do wanna advise to really check each step thoroughly when making a new attempt cause you've been lucky so far but your luck gonna run out one day and then you'll have broken your hardware. so really cool the water, check all connections and such.

GL trying and let us know if you succeeded.!

Oct 4, 2004, 04:06 PM	#1
merlinxi The Paranoid Cook Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: New Jersey Posts: 655 Rep Power: 0	Water cooling questions interesting UPDATE My friend and I are making a custom water cooling system. We are going to do Direct-die water cooling. We are getting plexi glass blocks to cut out and shape to the Pentium. We are using a 1200 L/hr pump. We are using Marine anti-freeze for the cooling. 3/16" tubing. Now the Resovoir is going into a refrigerator. (With some engineering enginuity to get the pipes through the fridge.) Our resvoir is a Gallon. Will this water cooling be effective? What faults do you see, besides the leaking and such that can be fixed. I am asking if this would be good cooling efficiency. If not why not? Because people continuely use AIR to cool the radiators which is POINTLESS because you are using AIR ROOM TEMPERATURE air against the radiator, which is still using air cooling. This makes no sense how that is effectice, in our case. Merlin __________________ 700 Watt Toughpower Cable Management Power supply -- Asus P55 LE Motherboard -- Intel Core i7 860 2.8GHZ Quad Core -- 6Gb Dominator Ram DD3 8 Latency Timings -- Windows 7 64bit -- Gigabyte GTX470 Superclocked Video Card -- 1.5 TB Hard drive, 1TB hard drive, 250GB Hard drive, and a partridge in a pear tree. Last edited by merlinxi; Oct 7, 2004 at 12:35 PM. Reason: Update

Oct 4, 2004, 04:36 PM	#2
GutterPunk I = Greatest Dood Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Nebraska Posts: 5,949 Rep Power: 71	Sounds reasonable, and since the water block isn't a maze, the antifeeze will not leave residue and clog up as easily... As for the block you are going to use, I have no clue on how efficient that will be... I do not know how well the heat transfer is in plexi glass __________________ Rock On \m/ Thank you Mousey for the Sig! --------------- Intel Core2Duo E6660 (3.4GHZ) ~ Tuniq Tower 120 ~ Enermax Galaxy 1000W ~ Corsair Dominator @ 1090MHZ 5-5-5-15 (OCZ XTC Modded Cooler)~ EVGA 8800GTX W/ HR-03 Plus 120MM ~ Asus DVD-RW LiteScribe ~ LG DVD-RW ~ Corsair Voyager 2GB ReadyBoost Drive ~ Vantec Nexus Fan Controller ~ ThermalTake Armor 25CM fan ~ Personal Finance Blog: Dent Your Debt

Oct 4, 2004, 04:44 PM	#3
krips UD Cruncher Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Alberta, Canada. Posts: 144 Rep Power: 0	Not that I want to start some big argument, but how is using room-temperature air to cool your rad pointless? Does water cooling that is done in this way not give lower temps than traditional cooling? That's what I thought. __________________ [color=navy]3200+ Winchester \| XP-90 \| LANParty UT nF4 Ultra-D \| Enermax 535W \| BBA X800XL \| 1GB OCZ PC4000 \| 2x80GB RAID1 \| Audigy 2 ZS \| Logitech Z5300E[/color]

Oct 4, 2004, 04:57 PM	#4
GutterPunk I = Greatest Dood Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Nebraska Posts: 5,949 Rep Power: 71	But his point is, just like w/ a hs/f you are only going to be cooling the medium at air temperature whether its 20C or 40C, you are rather limited And I get better temps then a friend w/ water cooling i am cooling w/ my stock hs/f and oced much much more (his isn't even touched) __________________ Rock On \m/ Thank you Mousey for the Sig! --------------- Intel Core2Duo E6660 (3.4GHZ) ~ Tuniq Tower 120 ~ Enermax Galaxy 1000W ~ Corsair Dominator @ 1090MHZ 5-5-5-15 (OCZ XTC Modded Cooler)~ EVGA 8800GTX W/ HR-03 Plus 120MM ~ Asus DVD-RW LiteScribe ~ LG DVD-RW ~ Corsair Voyager 2GB ReadyBoost Drive ~ Vantec Nexus Fan Controller ~ ThermalTake Armor 25CM fan ~ Personal Finance Blog: Dent Your Debt

Oct 5, 2004, 12:39 PM	#5
WisMerHill DriverHeaven Senior Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Netherlands Posts: 468 Rep Power: 0	also make sure you have proper protection from condensation. thats one of the reasons it isn't bad to cool with airtemp. when using lower temps than your surrounding s condensation will start to form so insulate your board. as to your statement : people continuely use AIR to cool the radiators which is POINTLESS because you are using AIR ROOM TEMPERATURE air against the radiator, which is still using air cooling it's flawed. 1st) air temp is cooler then the hot water returning to the rad so it will be cooled. 2nd) though in a closed system the principle of evaporation still applies meaning the hot water is giving up heat to the air. also, remember that watercooling isn't meant to freeze or anything, i use watercooling because it: - gives lower temps then on air - doesn't have the noise that aircooling needs to come close in performance __________________ [color=sandybrown][color=white] [/color] [color=white][color=white]M[/color][color=white]y Computer[/color]: [/color][color=white]3DMark2001[/color][color=white] - [/color][color=white]3Dmark2003[/color][color=white] - [/color][color=white]3DMark200[/color][color=white]5[/color][color=white] - [/color][color=white]PCMark2004[/color][/color] Last edited by WisMerHill; Oct 5, 2004 at 12:44 PM.

Oct 7, 2004, 06:08 AM	Thread Starter #6
merlinxi The Paranoid Cook Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: New Jersey Posts: 655 Rep Power: 0	well we got it to no leak status and we did the standard 20 minute test, with everything a go, we inserted the block and chip onto the motherboard. problem... our fault. (lol daves fault) and simply impatience, we didnt let the anti-freeze get cold. it was room temperature, the pump was at a steady trickle, not too slow but certainly not fast, 150 gallons an hour, but prolly a lot slower than that. we booted to the bios and went to health status. 210 degrees :-( the block was plexi-glass hot glued to high heaven all of a suddon the glue melted after about a minute of 200+ temp. farenheight and water all over the moboard. damn. i know the fridge and coolant was not all cool as it should of been. but even at roomtemperature why / how could the chip heat the 1.5 ounce of water touching the chip directly so fast. maybe its our pump speed? lol failure at its worste ((((((((((((((((( (Don't worry, the mobo and the chip are still in perfect health.) __________________ 700 Watt Toughpower Cable Management Power supply -- Asus P55 LE Motherboard -- Intel Core i7 860 2.8GHZ Quad Core -- 6Gb Dominator Ram DD3 8 Latency Timings -- Windows 7 64bit -- Gigabyte GTX470 Superclocked Video Card -- 1.5 TB Hard drive, 1TB hard drive, 250GB Hard drive, and a partridge in a pear tree. Last edited by merlinxi; Oct 7, 2004 at 12:36 PM.

Oct 7, 2004, 01:27 PM	#7
WisMerHill DriverHeaven Senior Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Netherlands Posts: 468 Rep Power: 0	could have been the lack of flow. you might wanna check that with a flow indicator. you're lucky all still works __________________ [color=sandybrown][color=white] [/color] [color=white][color=white]M[/color][color=white]y Computer[/color]: [/color][color=white]3DMark2001[/color][color=white] - [/color][color=white]3Dmark2003[/color][color=white] - [/color][color=white]3DMark200[/color][color=white]5[/color][color=white] - [/color][color=white]PCMark2004[/color][/color]

Oct 7, 2004, 02:25 PM	Thread Starter #8
merlinxi The Paranoid Cook Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: New Jersey Posts: 655 Rep Power: 0	Yes it has to be the flow. Cause first of all the pump had no return opening line. It only had a "go" line. THe pump is submergabel, so it only sucked the water in the resovir and spit it out of the top, so the return line had no suction back. So in other words their is really no way that flow was good at all. We are going back to the pet store and getting a much stronger pump, and one that sucks the return line, and not just pushes. So I am hoping we will get much better results. WE also are going to get 1/2 ID tubing, maybe bigger since we are not restricted by the block. If this works I will jump out of my boots. Merlin __________________ 700 Watt Toughpower Cable Management Power supply -- Asus P55 LE Motherboard -- Intel Core i7 860 2.8GHZ Quad Core -- 6Gb Dominator Ram DD3 8 Latency Timings -- Windows 7 64bit -- Gigabyte GTX470 Superclocked Video Card -- 1.5 TB Hard drive, 1TB hard drive, 250GB Hard drive, and a partridge in a pear tree.

Oct 7, 2004, 03:22 PM	#9
WisMerHill DriverHeaven Senior Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Netherlands Posts: 468 Rep Power: 0	Yes, should prove fun if you guys get it to work. I do wanna advise to really check each step thoroughly when making a new attempt cause you've been lucky so far but your luck gonna run out one day and then you'll have broken your hardware. so really cool the water, check all connections and such. GL trying and let us know if you succeeded.! __________________ [color=sandybrown][color=white] [/color] [color=white][color=white]M[/color][color=white]y Computer[/color]: [/color][color=white]3DMark2001[/color][color=white] - [/color][color=white]3Dmark2003[/color][color=white] - [/color][color=white]3DMark200[/color][color=white]5[/color][color=white] - [/color][color=white]PCMark2004[/color][/color]