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| Motherboards, Networking and Misc Forum Need the newest 4-in-1s? Some nForce drivers? some other driver you need? |
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#1 |
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DriverHeaven Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1
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Intel S5520SC ID LED Problem
Hi all,
I have a major proble with an Intel S5520SC, I have seen a few S5520SC users on this forum and reckon there is enough expertise here to warrant a post. I have just rebuilt a working system to accomodate a Noctua CPU cooler but when I have turned it on the ID LED stays blue, and the system does not boot when I hit the power button. I have already had my fair share of problems with this board, please help!!!! |
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#2 |
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Banned
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,754
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Re: Intel S5520SC ID LED Problem
The easiest way to manage this problem would be to learn about the history of your PC prior to this problem having occured.
Overclocked? Which parts to what speeds and any non-desirable outcomes? New parts? What parts and in what order? Eg: problems before parts installed or after, get it? New software? Drivers, BIOS, need drivers? OS installed and System Specs: Include in post. Also, did you check when you put your system back together whether everything is connected properlly? This may just be the problem. |
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#3 |
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HardwareHeaven Extreme Member
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Re: Intel S5520SC ID LED Problem
I wouldn't worry too much about the ID LED. It's only used for system identification, so that you can single out a problem machine if the systems are grouped in a rackmount setup. This can either be set using the Intel management software remotely, or by hitting the ID button on the front of the chassis (at least on Intel chassis).
If this isn't an Intel chassis I would double check the connection to the front panel. Pins 11 & 13 are for power, 15 & 17 for reset. Pin 19 is for the ID LED button, so if that pin is covered, or jumpered with another pin then that would be another reason why that light is on. One thing to try would be to remove all the connections to the front panel header, and manually jumper pins 11 & 13. The idea is to rule out the chassis, at least it's connection to that header, as a possible problem. Also, double check the PSU. The key thing to look at is what the PSU is set to (115 or 220). It's easy to accidentally switch it. Plus, look to see if any of the indicators on the board are lit up (which it should even if the system isn't turned on). That way you'll know that PSU is actually getting power to the board.
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_________________________________ Brain: So, you sacked the cocky khaki Kicky Sack sock plucker? Mr. Sackett: The second cocky khaki Kicky Sack sock plucker I've sacked since the sixth sitting sheet slitter got sick. Last edited by Tipstaff; Sep 28, 2009 at 01:05 PM. |
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