Painting a Steel Overture Case

thehum · Jul 8, 2006, 07:35 AM

I bought a floor model antec overture from chompusa for $45 a while ago because i figured it still had a good PSU and I could use the case for a temporary PC. However, it came very scratched up and I'm ready to repaint it. It's a steel case that came with a "piano black" finish.

I have black American Classic lacquer spray paint (gonna use with spray gun attachment). However, I was wondering whether I should just paint over the current scratched paint job or strip the current paint job off (can I sand or dissolve the finish off?). Also, since it's a black paint lacquer, it'll be very glossy but is primer absolutely necesary?

ZeroOne · Jul 8, 2006, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thehum

I bought a floor model antec overture from chompusa for $45 a while ago because i figured it still had a good PSU and I could use the case for a temporary PC. However, it came very scratched up and I'm ready to repaint it. It's a steel case that came with a "piano black" finish.

I have black American Classic lacquer spray paint (gonna use with spray gun attachment). However, I was wondering whether I should just paint over the current scratched paint job or strip the current paint job off (can I sand or dissolve the finish off?). Also, since it's a black paint lacquer, it'll be very glossy but is primer absolutely necesary?

remove all the paint first.

It's better to use first a Sink based primer ,first one layer then make the surface smooth then a second Sink based layer smooth is up lightly with the fines available wet grind paper.
For example so called P 1200 wet grinding paper,let it dry, and make the surface grease free with a non oil based degreaser stuff
Then finish it of with 3 or 4 layers finishing final spray,let not fully dry these first layers, then finish it of with the fourth layer.

I modded lots of cases this way en never failed this way.

thehum · Jul 8, 2006, 10:07 PM

hey do you mean water-based primer? how should I remove the paint? Also did you use lacquer or enamel?

btw this is what the case looks like new. (notice it isn't powercoated like most steel cases)

The_Neon_Cowboy · Jul 9, 2006, 06:34 AM

Take my advise with some salt please.

If you only wishing to bring it back to the same black, you could save alot of time
and effort by just wetsanding it with a fine grain. Then simply re-painting , just like
adding another coat. But I don't know how you old paint and new paint, how this
would work out.

just my way of thinking, but then again I go throug cases often

Scargo · Jul 9, 2006, 11:25 AM

Since I was sorta "in the business" I will give my 2 cents.....
As Cowboy advises, keep it simple, if you can. You may have less options since you have purchased the paint already and feel you must use it.
Lacquer attacks many paints and I would bet this is enamel since it is a glossy commercial application. That would probably be a problem. Powdercoat would be harder (more durable) usually not gloss and costs more to do. Likely not Powdercoat....
I suggest you get a spray can of high quality gloss black enamel. One can should do it. Put it on in light, even coats, being careful of runs since many enamels are more prone to running because of slower drying. I would wet sand the scratches out, trying not to break through to the metal. If you do (or if you strip it) you should use a "Zinc oxide" based or similar "metal primer". If you only have a small bare area, you may get by without it if it is clean. Wet sand it all to provide "bite" for the new paint. Prep a small area (removing skin oil) with isopropyl alcohol--full strength (from the hardware store or paint supply store) and test spray a small area with light wet coats before attacking the whole thing.

If it crazes or crinkles up then you'll need to strip it with any regular stripper from the hardware store. A quart should easily do it. Then find your metal primer and go from there. Just stay with the same brand or paint type throughout the process. You can spray anything over lacquer primer.... Just get a regular, sandable lacquer primer to go over the metal primer because the case metal probably won't be perfect, unless you want to go for a texture. Normally Krylon brand will have all of these in a spray can. I can go into more detail if needed. Use some ventillation!
Somewhere in DH I have advice on painting plastics.

Jul 8, 2006, 07:35 AM	#1
thehum DriverHeaven Newbie Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 2 Rep Power: 0	Painting a Steel Overture Case I bought a floor model antec overture from chompusa for $45 a while ago because i figured it still had a good PSU and I could use the case for a temporary PC. However, it came very scratched up and I'm ready to repaint it. It's a steel case that came with a "piano black" finish. I have black American Classic lacquer spray paint (gonna use with spray gun attachment). However, I was wondering whether I should just paint over the current scratched paint job or strip the current paint job off (can I sand or dissolve the finish off?). Also, since it's a black paint lacquer, it'll be very glossy but is primer absolutely necesary?

Jul 8, 2006, 10:07 PM	Thread Starter #3
thehum DriverHeaven Newbie Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 2 Rep Power: 0	hey do you mean water-based primer? how should I remove the paint? Also did you use lacquer or enamel? btw this is what the case looks like new. (notice it isn't powercoated like most steel cases) Last edited by thehum; Jul 8, 2006 at 10:13 PM.

Jul 9, 2006, 06:34 AM	#4
The_Neon_Cowboy HardwareHeaven Extreme Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: U.S.A. Posts: 16,009 Rep Power: 92 System Specs	Take my advise with some salt please. If you only wishing to bring it back to the same black, you could save alot of time and effort by just wetsanding it with a fine grain. Then simply re-painting , just like adding another coat. But I don't know how you old paint and new paint, how this would work out. just my way of thinking, but then again I go throug cases often __________________

Jul 9, 2006, 11:25 AM	#5
Scargo DriverHeaven Lover Join Date: May 2005 Location: Connecticut Posts: 100 Rep Power: 0	Since I was sorta "in the business" I will give my 2 cents..... As Cowboy advises, keep it simple, if you can. You may have less options since you have purchased the paint already and feel you must use it. Lacquer attacks many paints and I would bet this is enamel since it is a glossy commercial application. That would probably be a problem. Powdercoat would be harder (more durable) usually not gloss and costs more to do. Likely not Powdercoat.... I suggest you get a spray can of high quality gloss black enamel. One can should do it. Put it on in light, even coats, being careful of runs since many enamels are more prone to running because of slower drying. I would wet sand the scratches out, trying not to break through to the metal. If you do (or if you strip it) you should use a "Zinc oxide" based or similar "metal primer". If you only have a small bare area, you may get by without it if it is clean. Wet sand it all to provide "bite" for the new paint. Prep a small area (removing skin oil) with isopropyl alcohol--full strength (from the hardware store or paint supply store) and test spray a small area with light wet coats before attacking the whole thing. If it crazes or crinkles up then you'll need to strip it with any regular stripper from the hardware store. A quart should easily do it. Then find your metal primer and go from there. Just stay with the same brand or paint type throughout the process. You can spray anything over lacquer primer.... Just get a regular, sandable lacquer primer to go over the metal primer because the case metal probably won't be perfect, unless you want to go for a texture. Normally Krylon brand will have all of these in a spray can. I can go into more detail if needed. Use some ventillation! Somewhere in DH I have advice on painting plastics. __________________ ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe motherboard AMD Athlon 64 X2 4400+ Toledo: 2,600+ Mhz on air- Thermalright XP-90C with 92MM Thermoflow temperature sensing fan 4 Gig of OCZ Titanium DDR400 (PC3200) dual channel, unbuffered RAM MSI NX6600-TD256E video card & dual 21” CRT screen setup 2X - WD 250Gb 7200RPM SATA main drive, w. 16Mb cache 2X - Fujitsu MAU3036NP (15K RPM drives running SCSI 0 [striped]) in their own (optional) bay Lian 7077A - full tower case with optional 120mm fan in top and 120mm added in side, facing MB Antec TP2 550 (watt) power supply Windows XP Pro/Windows X64 Pro MS Digital Media Pro Keyboard Wacom Intuos II Tablet