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Old Jan 2, 2003, 05:58 AM   #1
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Athlon XP 2100 Unlocking...Do I HAVE to use a dremel?

What the fuck?!?!? I look all over the internet and I find I can only unlock my Athlon XP 2100 Palamino with a dremel motor tool??? Is there any other way to do it? This is pissing me off! Anyone out here have theirs unlocked and if so how?
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Old Jan 2, 2003, 06:29 AM   #2
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NO, I used a pin, the same pin I connect my bridges with, it just takes a scratch, a small scratch in the L10 bridge
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Old Jan 2, 2003, 06:33 AM   #3
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Let me just say NO! under no conditions should you use a dremel on your CPU! You do need to break a bridge, but you are breaking a much-less-than-paper-thin layer of metal, not sawing though 20 gauge steel! Like DaSnIpE said, you just need a scratch - enough to break the connection between the two contacts...
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Old Jan 2, 2003, 06:35 AM Threadstarter Thread Starter   #4
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But you just scrated all of the same bridges that they dremeled on that page?
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Old Jan 4, 2003, 03:57 AM   #5
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No, just 1 L10 bridge, here's the guide, http://discuss.futuremark.com/forum/...=5&o=0&fpart=1 It's pretty simple
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Old Jan 4, 2003, 09:15 AM Threadstarter Thread Starter   #6
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But hey, I also read there that it possible to connect all the L1 bridges like on any normal XP, and the rightmost L3 bridge...... Does this work to anyone's knowledge? I'd rather not do any cutting cuz then it would have to stay cut and could never be reversed. IS THIS METHOD OF L1 and one L3 bridge possible?
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Old Jan 4, 2003, 04:35 PM   #7
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I heard that works, try it out man, it's always reversable.
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Old Jan 5, 2003, 03:39 AM Threadstarter Thread Starter   #8
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UPDATE!

So I spent all day unlocking my processor....why all day?

Here is why?

I heard that I can close all the L1 bridges and the rightmost L3 bridge. So I try to do that. I filled the gaps with crayon (read on another forum) then used the window defroster repair kit. It started to strain my eyes so I said "screw this." Then I decided to reverse the two L10 bridges....cuz I heard that that works also. I cut the one bridge and then connected the other bridge. Guess what? Didn't do ANYTHING! The processor boots and runs just like it has always run.... So I get ticked. I tried to reverse the L10 work....It won't boot when reversed the L10 work.

So then I decided to just run it with the L10's the only way it would work (reversed from the normal way.) So then I get ticked cuz I hate running a 133mhz FSB. So then I try to connect all the L1s and the single L3. And it booted....Runs fine.... BUT IT IS STILL LOCKED!!! WTF! What is wrong?
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Old Jan 5, 2003, 03:47 AM   #9
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LoL, u need to do BOTH the L10 and the L1's. Did u just do the L10?
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Old Jan 5, 2003, 04:27 AM Threadstarter Thread Starter   #10
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Right now I currently have the L10s switeched and the L1s connected and the rightmost L3 connected.
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Old Jan 5, 2003, 04:31 AM Threadstarter Thread Starter   #11
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So tell me what needs to be done....I have one of the L10s connected and the other cut....the left connected, right one cut.... The L1s are all connected and the rightmost L3 is connected.... The computer runs fine with all those done...(so fine that is actually 5 degrees celcius cooler but i think that's just from putting the ASIII on very well (it used to be sloppy))
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Old Jan 5, 2003, 04:56 AM   #12
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U need the left connect and the right cut, don't touch L3, and the L1's connected
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Old Jan 5, 2003, 05:57 AM Threadstarter Thread Starter   #13
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What the hell do you mean? Type it in english (no offense) but I CANNOT understand anything that you just typed to me. Can you please tell me what bridges DO actually need to be connected or cut.
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Old Jan 5, 2003, 06:31 AM   #14
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Big Grin This is how mine is done...hope it helps

Your computer will ID it as a 1600+ when you boot and you will have multiplier control up to 12.5. NO MULTI's ABOVE 12.5 WILL WORK ANYMORE.

L1's should all be closed

L3's open open closed closed (left to right starting by the L3 label )
L4's open open closed closed ( left to right should look EXACTLY like L3's)
L10 closed open ( Left to right starting by L10 Label)

Mine works and I have multipliers from 6 to 12.5. Good luck!

MAKE VERY SURE that none of your connections actually cover any of the L# lables, if you connect the first L1 bridge and any of the material is touching the L1 writing on the chip, you have shorted that bridge to ground and its a very common mistake. Hope this helps.
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Old Jan 5, 2003, 07:15 AM   #15
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LoL, sorry, alright, here's the post, and it don't require the same amount of work as the post above.

U need an extra thing on the 2100+, the L10 multi, to switch the mutlipler down the less than 13X, as the L10 is a switch between >13x and 12.5x>.

So it looks like this right?
(Ignore the 2 . ( ..) under the 1 line)
_ _ _
.. - |
.. _ _

U have to switch the bridges, so they look like this

_ _ _
.. | -
.. _ _


Then u gotta link the L1's.

| | | | |

Make sure u use enough grease and make sure they don't touch nor do they touch other bridges, like the l3's on the bottom of the l1's.
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Old Jan 5, 2003, 07:25 AM Threadstarter Thread Starter   #16
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Hey Snipe....That's exactly what I did....I guess I have to ditch the L3 that I connected....then I guess that I am in the money.
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Old Jan 5, 2003, 07:55 AM   #17
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Right
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Old Jan 5, 2003, 08:36 AM Threadstarter Thread Starter   #18
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Well, I guess that I am NOT in the money....it boots up saying....Athlon 667 tries loads the ESCD and all that shit then just gives me errors in dos (everything is just garbage)...So I reverted to L1s, right L3, and the L10s switched.... This is stressing me out.
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Old Jan 5, 2003, 08:41 AM Threadstarter Thread Starter   #19
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WTF!! no more forum advice for me (just kidding)... I did originally use the XP2100 trick from http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.c...id=1009&page=2 but I overlooked one stupid thing.... I FORGOT THE DAMN L4 BRIDGES! No one mentioned those to me (cept desert siege....sorry)... Damn. Now I feel salty and I wasted a whole damn day.
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Old Jan 5, 2003, 10:46 PM   #20
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LoL, well u can do that, and use the unlocked 1600+, mine works differently, basically switching it to a 5x multi.
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Old Jan 7, 2003, 05:05 AM   #21
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Anyone know of a guide to unlock a 1700+? Is it as simple as just scratching the L10 bridge or does it get more complicated than that?
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Old Jan 7, 2003, 05:16 PM   #22
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For the 1700+, if it's a Tbred your unlocked, if it's a Pal, just link the l1's, I posted a guide a few posts back, tell me if u need it again
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Old Jan 7, 2003, 10:32 PM   #23
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How do I know if it's a tbred or not? Is there any way aside from removing the heatsink?
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Old Jan 7, 2003, 11:22 PM Threadstarter Thread Starter   #24
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Usually the color of the base.
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Old Jan 8, 2003, 12:29 AM   #25
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The tbreds have 1.5 or 1.65 defaul voltage, that's how u know, u can't tell by the color of the core.
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Old Jan 8, 2003, 12:49 AM   #26
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ha haha... a dremel tool ... thats like useing a chainsaw to cut a toothpick .... a bit of overkill...


try a exacto knife and light presure
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