CDRW OVERBURNING/CLOCKING

Discussion in 'Overclocking, Benching & Modding' started by Matt, Jun 6, 2002.

  1. Matt

    Matt Techy Bloke Wasting Time

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    Not much info around about this. Just wanted to collect info for the best media and cdrw for this . Great help when you need to burn 710MB :D Lets hear your views.
     
  2. dipstick

    dipstick New Member

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    I have never tried it before but if I was to look into it, I would check out this site http://www.CDRinfo.com
     
  3. DarkAngel

    DarkAngel New Member

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    Mad burning skillz

    matt -

    The BEST media that I have used and tested is Sony, FujiFilm, Kodak, and Verbatim. I personally use Sony right now, and depending on prices I will get some Fuji's too. All have been "rated" for 100+yr DataLife (the CDs are good for 100yrs). BUT it sounds like you need a LITTLE MORE than 700mb per CD...so I'd recommend you go for the "99-Minute" Media. That should hold just about anything you need it too. ;)

    Now as for a burner...that can get tricky. Check-out (www.cdmediaworld.com) for a few tips on the 99-minute media burner support (as well as Overburning in general). I might recommend getting a 24x Lite-On drive (since I have read that they can burn "through" anything). ;)

    Also it depends on WHAT you are "backing up". If you are doing SVCDs then some utils will allow you to burn 800mb on to a 700mb CD-R (I've done that) without a problem. (DVD2SVCD is the progie BTW) Also CDRWin is SAID to be able to do it...but I'm not a huge fan of it. I'm more of a Nero Fan, and I now that the latest version of Nero will let you goto 90minutes (I think 99min but I have to double check that).

    Hope this helps you a bit.
     
  4. HardwareHeaven

    HardwareHeaven Administrator Staff Member

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    great post darkangel, I agree the liteon and sony media give fantastic results.
     
  5. DarkAngel

    DarkAngel New Member

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    Also some media to stay away from (quality wise) are:

    TDK (12x and higher) - These are made by CMC Magnetics
    Ritek Branded CD-Rs / RWs (bottom barrel crap here folks)
    Maxell CDs - Also made by CMC
    "Unbranded" CD-Rs (like the "bulk-pack" found at CompUSA here in the states)
    Generics in General (Pny, ProDisc, etc)

    I know that a TON of people have bought the Unbranded CDs (myself included). And I had to back-up some "important data", so I used them. BIG MISTAKE!! I went back to those CDs that were burned 3weeks later...half were bad (they all worked when I made them). I was SO pissed. Since then, I've only bought Sony, Fuji or Yamaha (thats another one that seemed to work very well for me). Many people that I talked to (when I worked for CPU) told me that I didn't know what I was talking about, about the unbranded CDs. 2months later, I saw many of them coming back in buying "branded" CDs. :) I did a HUGE research project for the store that I was at and got to test everyone of the CD-Rs that we carried (one per SKU #). I got the Manufacturer by using CDR-Info (I believe is what its called) and then matched it up with various "Quality Control" Reports that I was able to locate online.

    All the media was tested on a Ricoh 4x8 CD-R drive, and a Plextor 12x10x32 drive (my personal burner). When I got my Plextor, I was able to get through anything (until SD2 came out and gave me some trouble...for a little while;)). The Sony CDs came out as being champs on both drives (including my 8x20 Plextor also). My Unbranded, and TDKs...gone. :( My old-school Kodaks from the 4x days...still work!

    You are going to pay a little more for your media...but you are paying for Quality Media (most of the time).

    Up next...I will get into the different Dye-Types if anyone would like to know whats up with that. :confused:
     
  6. dhc014

    dhc014 New Member

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    If any of you have Lite-ON, or one of its OEM's, it might be "overclockable". It's not really overclocking I know, but it's the best term for whatever it is. If you'd like to see if yours is upgradable, check out this thread by OC-Freak at cdfreaks.com. I'm not one of the lucky ones, my TDK 241040B (OEM LTR-24102B) is not upgradable :tears:
     
  7. Alan Allen

    Alan Allen The "Eye"

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    I have a Yamaha 8424EZ and it overburns a small bit. Never really tried it yet though. It uses generic Cd's with no problem. And, yes they are readable after 3 weeks. ;)
     
  8. zyfos

    zyfos New Member

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    I've heard that those 99 minute CD-R's are just the regular 80 minute CD-R's that are specially designed for overburning. Most of the CD-R's that i've seen are able to overburn to 702 MB. Also, I know that this is kind of obvious, but don't buy those Wal-Mart cd's (i think they usually just look like completely blank cd's, no labels). I've noticed that those things will blister easily, the aluminum flakes off fairly easily, and if you bend those things they will shatter into a thousand little glittery pieces.
     
  9. alewisa

    alewisa New Member

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    Just a wee bit of advice, whetever burner you have, start collecting firmware for it, especially older firmware. There is discussion amongst the "establishment" to start locking burners down, and some have already done so. Don't rely on dudes to patch firmware, either...

    FWIW, I have an old Ricoh 4x4, which I use when the "newer" burners won't write something - ok, it's slow, but I leave it doing it's job on a spare PC. the Plextors (12x and 16x drives) are used for all else. Some Plextor firmware has problems (perhaps my drive/setup) writing certain "things", since being upgraded. Yet the old Ricoh eats it. Just my tuppence.
     
  10. Murdock

    Murdock New Member

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    Re:

    With my new firmware (Nec 8 x 4 x 32) burner, I put a .bin file of 781 MB on 1 Disk with Nero 5590 this is not a joke almost nobody believes it, but i'm happy its true...
     
  11. lethoso

    lethoso New Member

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    Re:

    if it was in raw format then it is not actually 781mb, much less....
     

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