VGPU MOD on 9700 pro?

Discussion in 'Overclocking, Benching & Modding' started by Silverfox, Jun 2, 2003.

  1. Silverfox

    Silverfox New Member

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    Hardwired, if your preference is still the fixed resistor route, go ahead and install the 2.7 per the x-bits link on the core. Since you have improved your cooling with the added hs. Did you remove the shim? Finish the core side first to your satifaction. You really need to measure the core voltage with a DVM. With my air cooling mods and running the core voltage at 1.80volts, I can run 420. Then if you desire, install the ramsinks on the memory.(They may not allow you much in the way of a speed increase, but they should help the cooling of the memory, and that`s always good! Then see if you can run your memory at say 345 stable with no artifacts in the 3dmark03 bench. If you can, then shoot for 350 and try again. With the added memory volt mods, you will be lucky to get much more than 370. Without using the variable pots on the memory mods, I am a little hesitant on advising you which exact size fixed resistors to use. The memory mods are the ones you have to be very careful with to avoid a dead card. ;) Like I posted earlier, the best I could run stable with NO artifacts was 420/365, with all the mods, and ambient temps in the house around 75 degrees. After you complete the core side and the ramsink addons, increase your mem side to 345-350 and run the 03 benchmark and then post back the results, and if you still desire to do the memory volt mods, we will go from their. Good Luck!
     
  2. JavaFox

    JavaFox E Pluribus Unum

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    Hey, nevermind your soldering -- that was a very artistic picture you took there. :)
     
  3. HardWired

    HardWired New Member

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    Thanks JavaFox. That's my neighbors $700 5 megapixel camera in macro mode at work there.

    Hey Silverfox! Yes, I did indeed remove the shim. And having done this exact hsf mod before, I accomplished it all in well under an hour. I felt like an old pro at it ;)

    Unlike my first 9700p, this one popped right off. After removing the stock hsf, to my delight, I discoverd that I received what ATI would consider a poorly mfg'd. card. The vpu core was above the shim! I couldn't believe it, but I have read by others that was the case for them and in this case, it was true. So you can now believe it when people say their core is higher than the shim because I have now seen it. But I took it off anyway.... with no problems. And I used a blunt-nosed needle nose pliers like you suggested rather than a thin blade. The glue on this one wasn't nearly as cured or rock hard as my first one seemed to be. It seemed much more sticky or tacky, again, rather than being rock hard glue.

    And yes, even though this mod turned out a little goofy looking, I do indeed like the idea of a fixed resistor better. It's just an all around cleaner looking mod without all the wires IMO. Okay...2.7k it is then on the Vgpu mod.

    Was that a silly question about measuring the resistance of the adjustable pot you're using? Isn't that what the pot is doing is acting like a resistor, but rather than fixed, it's adjustable? And can that resistance be measured on your pot? Just a thought...

    As far as measuring the core voltage, please help cure my ignorance. Do I touch the red lead of the DVM to the solder spot I've seen in pictures and the black lead to any metal (ground) part of the case? Or a ground spot on the card?

    Also, regarding the VDDQ mod under the heatspreader, I really feel compelled to do it and was wondering if the 10k ohm res. like the one used in the xbitlabs mod would be okay?

    Because I have the newer rev. card with the identical chips, I'm a little hesitant to jump on the Vref and Vmem mods with fixed resistors yet, not knowing exactaly what ohm res. to use. Especially after seeing the extremeoverclocking.com guide where it shows using two differently rated pots on those. I wonder what that would relate to in ohms? I wish the xbitlabs guide had been using a newer rev. card for that mod guide. I'd feel a little more comfortable with it...


    edit: It looks like another 2.7k ohm res. will work on the VDDQ under the heatspreader plate? Plus, I now can't seem to locate a picture (I know I've seen it before) with the solder spot to measure the gpu volts. Can someone point/link me to a pic that shows where on the card it is? Thx...
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2003
  4. LardArse

    LardArse DH No1 AMD Overclocker

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    I have the identical memory V mod chips card and I used 20k VR on each. I have them a bit below 10k or so but I cannot really say since I slowly tuned them down to raise vref from 1.4v to 1.48v and vmem from 2.9v to 3.35v. So if you're willing to use VR, then go with 20k set at 20k first and then tune down bit by bit, with pc off of course. But take note, the memory volt mods are quite deadly if you go over the threshold, especially your vref. As for the vddq AKA chip below metal plate, I have not done that mod but from what I've read, the xbitlabs article is using a voltage/resistor way too dangerous. Dont go as high as that article I would say for vddq.
    You can measure resistance of VR before soldering them on.
    You can check the core voltage by placing the red tip of your multimeter at the "VGPU monitoring" spot.
    And the black tip of the multimeter on the card slot handle (ground).

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Silverfox

    Silverfox New Member

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    Hardwired, When I completed all the voltage mods, my final dial in voltages were Vgpu=1.80v, Vref=1.462v, and Vdd=3.32v With 10K dialed in on the Vref, the stock voltage increased from 1.37volts to 1.44volts. And you can see on the vref, I was only able to tweak the pot and increase the vref voltage to 1.462v, before the screen was about to go haywire and I immediately shut the system down. That is the reason we are telling you to use the variable pots versus any fixed resistors. Remember no two boards are exactly the same! Myself and I know Lardarse also, only want to advise you on the safest techniques and routes to take to ensure the integrity of your card that you purchased with your hard earned dollars. It may not look, cosmetic wise as you say using the pots, but when your finished benching or whatever with the voltages ramped up, the voltages can be reduced back to safer levels or back to their stock levels if desired in a few seconds. Using the fixed resistors will decrease the longevity of the card. In the process of removing the plate off the voltage regulator you run the risk of damaging the card, so thats the reason I, like Lardarse did not perform that particular mod. I have seen some of the guys with watercooling get the core up to 1.87-1.90v and the Vdd past 3.35v, but with just modded air-cooling the max voltage levels I mentioned above are pretty close to the cards stability limit. I can also assure you using the smd grabbers, they do make a secure connection and all the pots and wires can be easily removed if I desire to sell the card in the future. Using the smd grabbers allow you to only have to make your solder joints for the ground connections on the card. When you get through benching, all you have to do if desired, is power down and un- clip the grabbers from the chips, power up and your right back to the factory voltage levels. Are like I did just dial the voltages down to safer running limits and leave the grabbers intact. I have had no problems whatsoever. http://www.msnusers.com/Silverfoxgpuvrefvddvoltagemods/shoebox.msnw?Page=1 If you do decide to go the pot route for safety, just use 10K 15 turn pots which are better for small voltage tweaks. ;) You have almost reached your goals! Dont stop now ! Just be safe! :lol:
     
  6. HardWired

    HardWired New Member

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    When at Radio Shack, I've only seen 15 turn 10K pots, not 20k. Plus, the pots have three legs/wires coming off of them. Which one goes to which? There a diagram on the back of the package but it doesn't help me much.

    And LardArse, if your using 20K's turned down a bit below 10K, wouldn't it be okay to start out w/ 10K's, since you're going a little below that anyway?

    Plus, I don't have SMD grabbers. I'm feeling comfortable with soldering in the small area around the IC chip legs. If I use wires can I just solder the wire directly to the legs on the IC ships, to the pot, then to a ground point. I don't know what ground point to use.

    Help :confused:



    Edit: and it's pins 5 and 7 (7 being ground?) on my new rev. card on both identical ships for Vref and Vmem?

    Another edit: Can I just do that? Wire from pin 5, to the pot, then back down to pin 7 (ground) on both?
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2003
  7. LardArse

    LardArse DH No1 AMD Overclocker

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    The 3 leg pots work this way. If you use the 2 legs on the same side, you will get the maximum resistance and no matter how you tune it, it will not change. So you want to use either one of these legs with the third leg. Either one because one increases resistance when turned clockwise while the other increases while turned anti-clockwise so its just a matter of direction to turn. Of course, measure with a multimeter before soldering on to make sure you know which direction to turn and that the resistance is set to max first.
    You're right about the 10k resistor but the thing is I only guesstimate it to be around there and can't confirm as the mod is already soldered on. So you would be safer to go with 20k. Just do very minimal turns.
    Yep pins 5 for both and to ground of your choice. There are many grounded pin spots behind the card and one ground pin beside each voltage measurement pin (ie for GPU, VDD, VDDQ and Vref). So for my case I just made things simple by grounding to the ground pin beside the respective measurement points. VGPU grounded to ground pin beside GPU measurement pin and so on. Just use a multimeter to check out the pins to make sure they are grounded.
     
  8. LardArse

    LardArse DH No1 AMD Overclocker

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    Yes, you can do that as well.
     
  9. Silverfox

    Silverfox New Member

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    Hardwired, on the pots just use the middle leg and depending on whether you use the front leg or back leg of the pot, it dont matter. If you use the front leg and middle leg, when you turn the pot ccw the resistance will decrease and hence your voltage will increase. Some folks are just used to increasing things with a ccw motion versus cw. Just use your your ground wires on the middle leg also if you prefer. You can use any grounding point on the rear of the card. You can look at the end of the card where your monitor plugs into the cards vga connection and see the grounding on the card. http://www.msnusers.com/Silverfoxvoltagemodgpu/shoebox.msnw In pic # 6 you can see where I soldered the grounds off of the middle legs of each pot. The 10K 15 turn pots at radio shack are what I used. Just dial em in at 10 K and your ready to roll after making your solder connections. ;)
     
  10. HardWired

    HardWired New Member

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    Thanks for info guys. Also to make it clear for me... after soldering in the pots, I tests the resistance when the card is out of the system and laying on the bench...then plug it in when I'm sure it's around 10K?

    Also, is it okay to ground both wires from the pots for the vref and vmem to the same spot where you did Silverfox on the solder spot by the vga adapter in your pic 6? Or should they be grounded to different spots?


    Or I may just go from leg 5, to pot, back to leg 7 (is that the ground on these two chips?) to keep the wire length as short as possible.
     
  11. WilEE

    WilEE New Member

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    i wondring are this mods workin on a 9700NP ?
    or the rams are to slow for this kinda modding
     
  12. Silverfox

    Silverfox New Member

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    Hardwired, make SURE you dial in your pots to exactly 10K BEFORE YOU SOLDER in both connections leaving each pot! Do NOT solder both legs in and then dial the pot to 10K! I hope I am not late in responding to your latest post! I had to go to a birthday party for the kids, and just got back! And yes you can solder all your grounds at the same point for convience if you desire. Remember it does not matter if the board is out of the system or not, be sure and dial in the 10K ohmic value before you solder both ends off the pots to their respective pin and ground locations! ;)
     
  13. Silverfox

    Silverfox New Member

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    WilEE, I personally have done know voltage mods on the 9700 non pro, and cannot give you any information on them that would be accurate. Sorry! ;)
     
  14. HardWired

    HardWired New Member

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    Okay...the Vgpu, Vdd, and Vref are modded but I did not do the VDDQ...yet ;)

    I'm on my wifes computer, so once I fire mine up I'll be able to post some pics of what hopefully is a most excellent mod.

    I used 10k pots from Radio Shack on all three. Before soldering, I set the vdd and vref at their highest (10k ohms) and the vgpu at 3.0k ohms. I knew I wanted the vdd and vref pots maxed at 10k to start with, but with the vgpu, since the guy on xbitlabs used a 2.7k, and I just got done experimenting with a 3.5k, I thought 3.0k would be okay to start out on that one.

    One last question before I fire it up and possibly fry this card. With the multimeter, am I measuring AC or DC voltage? I need to know what to set the knob at on the multimeter.

    I know... you're thinking "this guy IS clueless".
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2003
  15. Silverfox

    Silverfox New Member

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    Set your digital volt meter on DC and the range at 2 for all voltages that will be below 2 volts. For the vdd mod set the range above 2 or whatever on your meter is just higher. You may want to wrap some electrical tape around the positive probe, leaving just the tip exposed, because you dont want to accidently slant the probe down horizontally on any of the adjacent components or solder points on the board and short anything out. Believe me it happens! You dont have alot of room when measuring, so sometimes you cant hold the meter probe at an elevated angle while measuring. With your pots dialed in at 10K, measure all your respective mod voltages for reference purposes before you start doing any tweaking up any further. And remember you wont have much room to increase the Vref, so when increasing it past its reference point, be watching your screen after each tenth of a volt increase. The Vref is the one to be very careful with! Remember my stock Vref before the 10K was installed was 1.37volts, and then increased to 1.44 with the 10K, and I could only go to 1.462volts before I observed horizontal lines in the screen. If this occurs do not think you can just turn the voltage back down and the problem will disappear on the screen, because it will not. Immediately power your system down and then turn your pot back down and then re-boot your system, and you will then know your Vref threshold! Increase the Vref in very small amounts and wait a few minutes between increases. You did dial the pots to 10K before you soldered the connections right? If you used a 10K pot on the Vgpu core, than you need to start out at 10K on it also! Better to be safe than sorry later ! ;)
     
  16. HardWired

    HardWired New Member

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    LardArse...

    You have a rev 3.0 card like I do with the indentical Intersil chips on the corner for the vref and vdd, at extremeoverclocking.com

    LINK

    It shows using a 50k on the vref and a 20k on the vdd (or vmem). Do you think I'm going to fry my rev 3.0 using two 10k's? I know you mentioned using two 20K's. Is 10K too low to start? I think you mentioned your 20K's being at 8k or so, so I'm hoping 10k's will work.

    I know Silverfox used two 10K's, but he's got the older rev. board.

    I don't want to fry this card :confused:
     
  17. HardWired

    HardWired New Member

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    Thanks for the quick response Silverfox. I did dial in the vref and vdd to 10K before soldering, but since 2.7k was safe for the vgpu, I dialed the Vgpu to 3.0k before soldering, assuming the 2.7k resistor that was used on the xbitlabs mod had no problems. Since it's already soldered, I'll just go four or five turns back so I know the pot is somewhere above 5.0k Do you think that will be sufficient?

    God I hope so. I don't want to desolder and then solder the vgpu again if I can avoid it.

    Also, did you read my post below yours about the different rev. boards? Yours is the older rev. and I'm wondering if 10k's for the vref and vdd on my newer rev board will be safe, since the mod at extremeoverclocking.com showed 50k and 20k.

    Man I hope so...
     
  18. Silverfox

    Silverfox New Member

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    Hardwired, just to be safe, maybe you should pm Lardarse and ask, since I know one of his boards is indeed the rev 3.0 also. Better to wait than get in a hurry, cause it dont take but a few seconds to fry your memory! ;)
     
  19. Silverfox

    Silverfox New Member

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    Hardwired, just to be safe, maybe you should pm Lardarse and ask, since I know one of his boards is indeed the rev 3.0 also. Better to wait than get in a hurry, cause it dont take but a few seconds to fry your memory! ;) And yes your core should be fine with what you have done.
     
  20. HardWired

    HardWired New Member

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    Okay I just black taped everything but the very end of the tip on the positive probe. Great tip, thanks Silverfox. And setting the multimeter for ohms was easy, it was the only setting there was. But for the current, I was going "AC, or DC? AC, or DC?" I had no idea.

    And yes, I will go VERY SLOWLY on the vref. Another possibly stupid question. Can I turn the pots with the system running, or should it be powered down?

    Also, this mulit meter of my neighbors ($100 Craftsman) has two little buttons that you can either enable or disable that are marked D-H and P-H. Any idea what that is for. I'm assuming just leav them disabled. I'd ask my neighbor but he's gone for the night.

    I think this thing is too beefy for the volts. It's even go a big clamp at the top. Anyway, it has two 0's then a point, then a 0. So it looks like this 00.0

    I think it's meant for much larger volts than what I want to measure. I have an analog voltmeter from another neighbor and it's much smaller but I obviously can't measure the 3 digits after the point like what your readings are. And the digital from my other neighbor only shows one digit after the point. How about I just don't go past 1.3 anything on the digital, knowing that going to 1.4 could bean anything after the .4?
     

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